The most profound Thanksgiving celebration I ever had began with eight of us guests politely chatting together while our host and hostess finished meal preparations. We were an odd collection of strangers, and behind the small talk we were trying to figure out why each of the others was there.
Our dilemma was soon solved. Farmers Lynn and Jon came to call us to the table with a little speech: We were all people who had helped them in some way that year, performing acts for which they were grateful--the dentist had fixed Jon's teeth after a soccer accident; a neighbor rescued them late one night when their car broke down; the lawyer helped them negotiate a controversy over an aerial pesticide spray program; the writer had encouraged Lynn to author magazine articles as a source of winter income. Then they led us into the kitchen for a home-cooked feast, the likes of which I had never seen.
My reservations about eating a feast that included no meat (it was my first gustatory encounter with vegetarians) soon dissolved as each of the artistic, hearty, homegrown dishes was passed along the table.
The most memorable dish was the stuffed squash, a plump, orange winter squash as large as any turkey, stuffed with spicy breadcrumbs, buttery onion chunks, nuts, cheese, and--if I remember correctly--golden raisins. I had three helpings. And I have never thought of squash in the same way since.
Now I see squash in its entire spectrum, the shapes and skin tones individually unique: acorn, butternut, green and blue hubbard, pattypan, banana, scalloped, spaghetti, and, of course, pumpkin. Sliced crosswise, these squashes have beautiful scallops and curves, serving as their own platters from which to scoop the creamy insides.
Squash can be sprinkled with cinnamon and sugar. Cooked into soups. Baked into quick as well as yeast breads. Deep fried like french-fried potatoes. Stuffed as desired and served as a very earthy, filling, main course.
Squash makes for very healthful eating. In a single half-cup portion you get more than a full day's supply of vitamin A, plus fairly high amounts of vitamin C, fiber, and potassium, virtually no sodium, and only about 40 calories.
This is a good time of year to experiment. Squash is in season and cheap. And, as Thanksgiving Day approaches, squash can remind us of the bounty (which includes corn, beans, berries, chocolate, peppers, tomatoes, cocoa, potatoes, wild rice, and mushrooms) that native North and South Americans have shared with the rest of the world. Have a truly simple but decadent feast!
Winter Squash Bake
In a saucepan, boil for 5 minutes:
· 3 c. cubed winter squash (peeled or unpeeled as you like)
· 1 c. diced celery
· 1 c. diced onion
· 1 1/2 c. water
Add:
· 2 c. breadcrumbs (or oatmeal, soda cracker crumbs, etc.)
· 2 beaten eggs
· 2/3 c. melted butter (reserve a little to drizzle on top)
· 1 c. grated cheese
· salt and pepper to taste
Top with:
· wheat germ or crushed cereal and remaining drizzle of butter.
Bake at 350 degrees for 30-45 minutes.
Options:
1. Broccoli, cauliflower, and other vegetables may be added for variety or to stretch the dish further.
2. While vegetables are boiling, fry 1 pound of sage or hot-spiced sausage. Drain the oil and add sausage to the vegetables with the breadcrumbs and eggs. If you use sausage, delete the butter altogether, except for the drizzle of butter on top of the casserole.
Carey Burkett, former assistant to the editor at Sojourners, was an organic vegetable farmer in Hallettsville, Texas when this article appeared.
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